Lawton is ready

2009, August, San Sebastian

We arrived in San Sebastian after flying into Bilbao 2 days ago in an utter down pour.  Very un-spain like as we had not seen in a cloud in 2 weeks.  The last day or so had been trying with Lawton Breaking his arm, frantic drive to the Seville airport from Nerja.  

the kids ate some of my world famous, Andalucian sugar- Cinnamon French test but Amy and I did not eat and we had the previous mentioned lousy meal at the airport.  Then, right after take-off, the Airbus 320 started with a sharp, loud and long vibrating noise coming from the rear.  Understandable that Amy had a death grip on my hand given the recent sudden loss of the tail sections on some of the Carbon Fiber Airbus planes. (Shameless Boeing plug)

I actually hate flying and every little bank or pitch or deceleration, I fear sudden loss of a flight control, wing or rudder or POWER and  I always strain to look at the flight attendants to gauge their concern. They are never concerned, frequently staring at their finger nails or the such.  On this flight, they were not at all concerned and I was reassured and told Amy as much.  

Maggie was not concerned either.  Neither was Lawton, both fast asleep and Jordan was deep into another long book.   After the noisy beginning it was an actually uneventful flight we landed without a problem, Bilbao.  Known for two things:  A Guggenheim Museum and a crazy, concrete airport, which I loved but the locals complained that is was cold, expensive and leaked water.      Sounds like the King dome and actually looked like it as well.

We rented a car from Hertz.    A dark grey station wagon called an, 'Astra'.  Trying to save fuel by putting very small engines is soo 80's (see hybrid or diesel technology).    This is a piece of junk and with the 'petal to the metal' down a slight hill, 62mph.   

I picked it because it was substantially cheaper than the other cars (like a VW) and included 'full coverage'.  She claimed that it was a 'promotion'.    I think it was their last car.

This is not what I wanted.  It was raining, hard.  The car was small and underpowered.   I was praying the place we rented was as nice as the Internet photos.  Jordan and Lawton were taking turns hitting each other and Maggie was singing at the top of her lungs,  "La La La" and occasionally shrieking.

We came up to Jose-Maria Sebarria Blvd.   Left looked like rows and rows of 60's Soviet style workers housing.  Right was 200 year old beautiful apartments, Renesaince style, Beau Arts style all stone, carvings, details, craftsmanship.  

Amy looked at me and said, "I hope we are taking a right at Jose-Maria Sebarria Blvd".   "Let me get the directions out, it says....   Oh crap, to go  left at Jose-Marie Sebarria Blvd"    Damn internet- looked so good in the pictures...

I so desperately wanted my wife to excited about San Sebastian.  She had endured a lot up to this point and she was deserving of something special.  I had heard it was beautiful and the food was great...

Well we got into the apartment and she began to cry.   I asked the neighbor across the hall for food recommendations and recommended a restaurant that we could not find.   We found another and tried to order more food that the kids would not eat.  

On the way there, some 11 year old kids let off an M80 in the commons area.  "Oh great, we are in an ETA stronghold with budding terrorists learning about esplosive deeevysis

The kids were a bit wound up and I introduced them the pilot episode of Mork and Mindy on Youtube.  Amy had been playing with Jordan with the typical Mork from Ork hand shake, fingers splayed, "Nanu Nanu" for the last week.    At least the kids were laughing...    "Ork Ork Ork".

Amy awoke the next day and trying to lift her spirits said, "I am going for a run".   I gave her a  map and said, follow the River down to the beach and check it out.

She came back with these Huge EYES.    

"You are not going to believe this place.  It is incredible.  The beach is amazing.  There is huge mountains in the middle of town and they circle around this amazing beach.  The bay is turquoise and the sand is pure white. The buildings are so cool.  The park is incredible.   come on, get your clothes on."   She spoke with urgency in her voice and an excitement that I have not seen since leaving Barcelona and this was quite a change from the previous 36 hours.

We then quickly dressed and set out from our crummy apartment and have not stopped exploring this incredible town since.  Yesterday, we played in the water for several hours and had tapas last night.   

Today we rented bicycles and rode around the whole city, stopping frequently to hike one of these mountains, explore the old town, parks.   We rented a private Cabana on the beach for several hours and lapped up the sun and the sea.   I took my shirt off at 4pm believing that one can not get a sun burn after 4pm.. Wrong again.   

San Sebastian or as the local Basque people call Donostia is very special.   It feels like the best part of Europe in one smallish town.   

the beach is big, 2 miles long and circular with a small mouth at the entrance (including an adorable island with a castle on it).   a big, ornate promenade filled with strolling people stretches the entire distance.

the water is warm and turquoise blue. It is filled with many, many cute sailboats.

the beach is bleach white and a fine, luxurious sand.     The weather is 85 degrees July and August and rains the other 10 months of the year (like Seattle).

It feels like a combination of the Swiss Alps, the way the mountains come right into town.  The beach feels like the French or Italian Rivera and the buildings feel a bit like some of the amazing architecture that you see in Paris or Florence or Munich.

Very clean and has a bit of a German feel to it, not like the rest of Spain.  Tall, dark green Fir trees line the hillsides.

Amy is so excited and is having a ball and it is so nice to see this smile on her face.  Even though Lawton's cast is starting to get mushy as he has been digging 'castles' in the Sand.   Amy calls this place, Sand Sebastian by the way.

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We rented bicycles and put Lawton, Maggie in Kidd-o seats and Jordan had his own bike.  It was a blast!  We explore the area for two days, climbed a hill at the entrance to the bay.  Watched the local surfers ride some huge waves.  Very nice break, quite the surfer scene here.

Rained yesterday-but warm and managed to not get wet despite on bicycles all day.  Jordan had a ball jumping all the rain puddles.

Lawtons first cast fell apart yesterday after playing on a wet play structure and digging in the Sand (it is plaster).  I replaced it today.   More stout and little tight for my liking and may need to be bi-valved to open up.    

Today was a tough day (Saturday).  It was warm and even mostly sunny in the afternnoon with nice breeze.  We had aspirations to explore a museum and possibly take a Cruise on a sight seeing boat to an Island that is very tall on a narrow base with a cute little lighthouse on top.

It was not meant to be and we should have known from the difficulty getting out of the house.  The kids have found the elevators in our apartment building as the local play-structure and they went up and down for probably 3 hours over last day or so probably driving the locals crazy (10 story building).   "they run by the neighbors yelling, "Hola" and Lawton asks, "Hablas Ingles?" but does not really stick around for the answer.

We finally walked into town after breakfast.  Jordan was starving and in retrospect probably polished off  both Lawton and Maggie's food.  Normally fine but after about 1/2 mile the younger two simply ran out of gas.  "Straight to McDonalds, Stat!" 

We have given up on trying to convert them to eating Spanish food (Ham, cheese, red peppers, Quiche and wine).  many of the above are served on a slice of french bread baguette.  this is what the Spanish call Tapas or Pinchos (pintxos in Basque).   Often with lots of Mayonnaise.   

Our kids have refined their taste after 8 years of Mac and Cheese and hot dogs can not simply be undone in a 3 week trip to the land of Ham and fish.  We (like the Spanish) fell back in love again with MacDoo.   Quick, cheap, clean,  can't smoke.  You can even order a beer in these parts.  Like the US.  the Mcdonalds are filled with the local Hip Hop generation, quite a site!.  If you think the kids in the US are the only people putting wierd tattoos on strange places (necks for instance) then think again.   Everyone here has a facial piercing and a big tattoo on the left neck-go.  sometimes it is the only tattoo!

Well, back to Mcdonalds - the kids love french fries and chicken McNuggets and are dismayed every time they open up their Happy Meals to find the same 'stupid' Leggo cars (3 pieces only) and same Poly Pockets.    They see all the different options for these toys in the glass display case (like 5 different each) and can't believe that McDonalds would be so sinister (or clever) as to only given one model during a 2 week period).   

Well alas. Yesterday was a bust.  the whole family is out of gas including me.  We made a cursory trip to the port and I tried to get everyone on a really cool boat cruise.  Nope.  No one wanted it.   Even the Tapas have lost their flavor for me and I must admit,   Amy is right again, I have overscheduled us.   We have some friends from Seattle that are staying a year and have put their kids into school) and we are planning on spending the last few days in Valencia with them.

We called them up, "good news, we are coming early".  They seem equally excited and have been here since July.   They too are probably looking from a break.  Being in a new land is exhausting.

Even handing someone a 10 Euro note for 2 doughnuts with cream filling is exhausting. They hand all change back in coins (they do not have paper less than 10 Euros) and the coins are different, shape and colors and it is so much more work to do the mental math).   I keep thinking to my self, "I am not getting enough change here".   I force myself to double check in Spanish and carry on a conversation (conversar is the verb) the preterite is conversé     Now how do I say.....   Ah crap, just keep the 10 euros

This trip is winding down and it has been an incredible experience.  More expensive than I thought, more spectacular than I though and more exhausting than I thought. One of the really bright notes when one ventures on a trip like this- it forces intense, intimate contact, parenting and engaging of your spouse and kids and I mean that in a good way!.

I find the people here just like the people anywhere.  Incredibly honest, sweet.  Afraid of the unknown and not wanting to change.  The older generation just marvel at our kids and are constantly trying to hug, kiss or just touch or Ooogle them.   the children do not want anything to do with this unless they are getting some candy...

I hope there are more of these trips in the future and I think they will get easier and easier as the kids get older.  We need to come back because Europe is big and so many different cultures, languages, foods and geography and history to explore and I can not think of another 4 people that I would rather do it with.   I will be so fortunate that when the time comes in the future that they are as excited and interested in doing it with me when we sit around that table in February after 4 months of rain and try to decide what to do with our summers...... 

Off to Valencia for a few days y entonces, vamos a regresar

The Friedlands

2009, August, Nerja

Nerja, second week.

Traveling with kids is a learning experience.  I now realize that in order to be happy, your kids need to be happy otherwise a slow steady whine slips out and they chime in unison....

But, if you have hot weather, a crystal clear blue pool and a few inflated pool toys, water hose, cups, sponges, brooms, diving board, you can read a book at the pool side for 4 hours in the sun.   

So far the highlights of the trips:  The never ending Spanish Sun, Barcelona and its many attractions. the beach of Nerja, the beach side Paella Barbacoa, the Alhambra.   The Nerja Caves, the Spanish treats and ice cream, frequent, Mediterranean climate, views are incredible, Tibidabo and reading this book called the the Shadow of the Wind which is about a mystery in Barcelona in the 30's.

My Spanish is coming along and I am starting to read the newspapers in Spanish. They are all fascinated with our president and also the torture of prisoners in Guantanamo Bay.   But alas, we are now in Basque country.  "The language that is unlike any other in Europe", they boast.   Amy thinks it is a variation of Greek.

This is also where ETA is strong, Two police were just exploded by ETA in Majorca (an Island south of Barcelona, not Basque country) and yesterday they just confiscated 500 lbs of explosives in France by ETA operatives.    The source of the frustration is like the IRA/nationalism.     The feel for the loss of the language, culture.  

But this is repeated in many parts of world as we are slowly becoming one, all enjoying the wonders of fresh tomatoes,  good coffee, Hip Hop music and the wonders of good dental Hygiene.   From what I see, the dental Hygiene maybe a big part of their complaint.  

Here, 'the Bar' is king for lunch, dinner and even breakfast.  People seem to live on coffee, cigarettes and wine with the occasional bread and a slab of fish of cured ham.  Very odd seeing someone have a glass a of wine with the morning paper....  

Okay. So many of you have heard of Lawton's broken Arm.  My biggest fear is that a child would get sick in Spain (Jordan is approaching appendix age) and we have had quite a few dental mishaps the last year.

We it happened, Lawton broke his arm.  The Spanish love to relax, but sometimes they are too tired to complete some basic tasks and they will cut some corners.   The 3 legged stool is a good example of this.  Many of you have not ever seen a three legged stool that is because they have been largely illegal in the  US for almost 200 years (ever since the Germans started to come to America).

The reason is, they tip over just when you do not want them to tip over.  Usually with a plate full of food and a bowl (Gazpacho for example) or when you are standing on it to reach something high like:  flowers for you mom).  

We did not see Lawton fall, but seem to have the classic FOOSH or fall on outstretched hand.   Lawton is known to cry quickly with bruises and bumps, but is quick to console.

Not this time, and he was very tender on his distal radius.  Fortunately it was not deformed or displaced and is likely what we call a 'Buckle Fracture' where the bone behaves more like plastic and fatigues, wrinkles rather than cracks all the way through.

Mama bear Amy lobbied for immediate trip to emergency room at 930pm to see a specialists in Emergency Care and probably a splint after xrays.   I argued that he had received #1 (might not be found anyway at local ER given the poorly applied splints I had been witnessing in Nerja) and probably did not need #2 or #3 immediately.

We agreed to see if his pain resolved with a heavy dose of ibuprofen, which it did. 

he went to sleep and tried to get out of bed, pushing off with his left hand, then screeching in pain.  My fears exactly were confirmed when I then gave a little push on top of the wrist, screaming "Why would you push on my broken arm, you dummy!"

Well, we needed to get to the airport and this could wait, he would need to be carefully with it.  Except he was sitting next to a smart, 8 year old brother for the 2 hour car ride and when Jordan wanted to hurt Lawton, he would not strike for the left wrist.    I think this is a Friedland gene by the way.. Amy is aghast to say the least, 'Where does he get this from'.....

Well we checked our baggage and I saw a pharmacy in the airport.   Maybe they have a metal wrist splint (or if I am really lucky-maybe they would have casting materials).

This was a pharmacy that seemed to specialize in anti wrinkle creams.  This is understandable given the unbearable Andalusian sun.   

In Spanish, "Hi, I am a doctor from USA and my son has a little broken arm and I need to put on a cast, do you have materials for this or splint metal or otherwise?"

Female pharmacists (only females in the pharmacy in Spain by the way), hair pulled back, full length white jacket), "No, you need an orthopedic specialists for that".  

Me, "Too bad.  Hey, what is that in your closet behind the counter, next to the gauze roll?"

Pharmacists, "Oh this, I don't know, would you like to see it?"

Me, "Claro".   which means, of course!

I almost peed my pants.  one roll of 2" and one roll of 4" plaster casting materials, dated from Franco times around 1950s.  Almost there.  "Give me that gauze roll and I need some scissors".  

"Amy, Do you have a Tshirt that I could cut up for padding?".  She had just checked all of our clothes but I did have a pair of CLEAN underwear, in my back pack. (I always travel with clean underwear).     I think my mom told me something like that when I was young.

Close inspection of my underwear revealed that it appears to come from the same textile factory that makes the arm, stockinette material used under casts.  PERFECT and unbelievable luck!

"Da Me un scissors!"  Give me those scissors!".   I cut out the elastic bands only the cotton material was left.

I carefull rolled this on, padding the boney prominences where one can get a pressure sore and then the gauze padding and then the folded over 4" plaster casting roll that was wetted with aqua sin gas.  Jordan and Amy were my eager helpers, Nurse Amy was an able assistant and (meticulously? neurotically?) insured there were no wrinkles or other possible sources of discomfort in the wrapped undies and gauze before the hard casting material was applied. 

I felt like McGuiver right there, between the Spanish airport security and a pharmacy that functions as a way to sell much needed anti wrinkle cream.  I even asked the pharmacists, "have you seen the show, McGuiver?".  "CLARO!" Of course she had and she and Amy where having a ball!  Lawton, not so much... but before you know it, Lawton has a perfect short arm cast on his left wrist (and two packs of gum - his choice).   Much better than the poorly applied splints that where seen on the walking wounded Brits that had found there way to the Local ER after too much Sangria and the tile/concrete steps that are not to code (too short of treads and too tall risers).

We went through security as the cast was curing, still wet.   I winked at Amy, "And now you get the Xray you wanted".  

I started to lift Lawton up on the belt that leads into the Xray machine...   Amy was not amused.  This is not what she had in mind and she has been an incredible trooper from the very beginning.   This is WAY out of her comfort zone (even if this is well within her husbands comfort zone probably taken care of this problem 500 times).

After this whole ordeal, we went through the security and they took our 9 year old old Rioja and our 25 year old Rioja that were gifts from our Spanish friends.  "Could be liquids nitrogen bombs"

We were famished and Amy had not eaten all day from all the stress and was a little grumpy.   She met me in line of a cafeteria, "what looks good?" she asked.  "This stew looks good" I said, "it has tomatoes, eggplant, peppers".   "No thanks she said abruptly, I want this one" and walked away irritated after a day of 'Eric's world...'

She was in no mood for a discussion which is too bad because she just ordered a stew that had chunks of Chorrizo sausage floating in chunks of Tripe, liver and pancreas" and I don't think it was from a fluffy white sheep either.     Here, the PIG is king and the saying is that all is utilized except the 'oinker' and they were not joking.   

I thought this is going to be very interesting.   Sure enough, "Amy began to realize that her stew was definitely a SAVORY stew".    I asked, "How is the stomach?"   with a smile on my face.  I was not talking about HER stomach either...  "I knew you like meat, but this is a NEW revelation - Organ MEATS!"   This opens up a whole new chapter in our Cuisine.  Maybe we try  the Brains next.... 

tonight, I will make it up to her and take her to some of the hottest and hippest restaurants in all of the world, the Tapas restaurants in San Sebastian.

When one travels some of the most memorable experiences are not the ones seen on glossy marketing travel guides but rather some of the unplanned events that one endures or experiences.  Nothing is all bad and nothing is all good.   Even Lawton's broken arm has a bright side.

It looks like this might be the best way to cure Lawton of his confused left handed writing (he throws right).  He did his Kumon this morning with his right hand and the writing is much better that with his left!

I will send the email from Nerja in a couple of days, it is lengthy...

Eric

2009, August 16th, Day #4, Barcelona

Today was our fourth day in Barcelona. We all slept in until 10AM! It was a little tougher for Amy as she has not been sleeping well lately and she asked if she could take some of my sleeping medicine. I gave her 1/2 of my usual dose. 25mg of Amytryptiline. She conked out about 15minutes after taking it and slept almost 12 hours, not moving once.

We were awoken with the sound of whistling Pete's getting closer and closer. I jumped out of my bed and a deep slumber and said to myself, 'hey those are whistling Petes and someone has kinked them because they are EXPLODING!. I ran to our balcony and looked out into our alley. Low and behold some guy is lighting off whistling Petes (without ear protection and it was loud 30 feet up) and he is leading a procession of 12 foot kings and queens and a giant chicken and a giant lion. Then this stout little dwarf. Also included two bands playing the coolest music and a group of people smacking wooden dowels together while dancing (imagine national geographic special or Rick Steves in Barcelona or something).

Jordan and I put on our clothes and ran down. Amy said, 'where are you going?' Jordan and I looked each other and said, "we are not sure - A man throwing large whistling M80's and some 12 foot royalty escorted by a giant chicken just walked by and we though we would follow them and see where they are going"

She contemplated coming as well but kept trying to pull her socks over her shoes, cursing the 'Elephant Tranquilizer' I gave her last night. "Don't worry Amy, I will get you an espresso" She mumbled, "I am so gorked, I am so GORKED!, Make it a double, no a triple..."

We ran down and followed them around the block and then to the giant, 400 year old church just 300 feet away. We watched some 80 year old eccentric, little Catalan woman sing some song and the band joined in (she had giant sunglasses, yellow hat, funny pants- you know typical Catalan wear). I don't think she was part of the show. honest, I think she just ended up joining the procession, like Jordan and me.

We got Amy several espressos and after much fussing around, trying to find keys, etc, we set off for the Picasso museum. Very, very cool. At 3pm, it was free for everyone and we explored the Born District (where we will stay WHEN we come back next year) and got some very killer gelato. Everyone ordered the cream carmel and Lawton and I got the limon-lima (lemon-lime) but should have just been called lime. They don't actually have a separate word for LIme in Spanish or Catalan, as far as I can tell. Everything is Limon. both limes and lemons.

Well the Cream Carmel was amazing. I blew it on that one. Lawton Seemed happy. Go figure, something cool and full of sugar... It was 85 today, AGAIN! Did I mention that I am coming back next summer.

We visited the Picasso museum. Pretty darn cool. Everyone is familiar with his Cubism, but he experimented with surrealism, pointillism, minimalism, communism and very, very realism. We liked it very much. 1901 he lost his best friend, was poor, starving and depressed. I think he was flirting with Nihilism, because all his paintings were Blue for 4 years. His painting of his sisters confirmation at age 15 is incredible though. would rival the best impressionists at age 15!

Maggie fell asleep on Amy, Lawton and Jordan drug me as fast as they could threw the rest of the museum, "oh dad, you saw that. You won't like that. Hey, dad have you seen this door (not kidding) it was the salida or exit.... No respect. They don't even know Spanish. maybe they are picking up Catalan though.

We walked home, Amy still in a 'fog' that she was blaming on my sleep aid "I will never, ever take another one of those. How do you do it?" (faithful friend for 5 years of nights by the way). She promptly walked over to the bed and crashed for another 3 hours at 4pm until 7pm. Usual therapeutic dose for voices is around 300mg by the way. No wonder psychiatric patients are disabled. They are sleeping all the time...

Amy is smart and kept asking, "see if you can get some Ambien". I was saying, "No way, that is a scheduled class drug they will not let some doctor walk into a pharmacy and ask if he can prescribe his wife this medicine without a script or licensing". Well, I was wrong again.

Me in Spanish to the Catalan pharmacist , "My wife is having a terrible vacation because she can not sleep" He shows me an antihistamine. I told him that I am a doctor and could I prescribe Ambien for my wife?" Sure, no problem. "But I don't have a script", He handed me a ripped blank sheet of paper with someone else information the back, just write it here.

So I wrote the script, "i po qhs prn" #10 tablets (not trying to be greedy) Which is guess is LATIN after all, and within 30 seconds, he throws a box of 30 at me, total price $4 euros including baby wipes. My wife is going to sleep tonight. And tomorrow night.

I rallied the troops and we took the 'Metro' as they call the subway (by the way, if you ask for the 'subway' you get lots of blank stairs but making whooshing sounds like you are a snake underground will get the point across). The subways in Spain are amazing, think German engineering.

We heard of a festival in the Gracia neighborhood which does not mean 'thanks' but rather 'grace', I believe. They should have named it not 'grace' but rather 'unrefined'. this is a working neighborhood north of the Gothic district. The Gracia festal or festival is about blocks decorating their block with lights and art and then a competition takes place with voting on the best decorations. Imagine Blue collar Milwaukee having a festival with lots of decorations suspended above the street. yes, you got it. Tattoos, beer, Foosball and not many teeth and pretty bad decorations.

I wandered around with the kids for a bit and managed to find one of the blocks. We were SOMEWHAT UNDERWHELMED by the creativity of the decorations. What was interesting is that the men playing were playing a game that is a cross between Foosball and tiddly winks (Honest). And these were 60 year old men playing with serious intent as they tried to shoot the puck into the net.

We then walked to the main square and basically the Carnival arrived and you can see one of the videos I shot. The rides were actually great- but it is obvious they do not have a tort system in Spain. The rides often encroached onto the main walkway without any barriers to prevent injury (Lawton almost lost an eye twice). The centrifugal swing with chains dangling off looked like an medieval weapon, NO BARRIERS. Not kidding, and the place was full of drunk people!

All the rides were spray painted with both characters from Disney and Warner Brothers. I have a feeling they are not paying a lot of Royalties.... going from German Subway engineering marvels to a Tijuana Carnival in about 500 feet was very odd. Maybe all Carnies have an international brotherhood... The ROMA were not included though.... The Gypsies are not allowed to blue collar neighborhoods.

I needed to get the kids fed and with my bad Spanish (and worse Catalan) I ended up order $50 dollars worth of frozen fruit with whipped cream on top. The kids were not amused until they brought packets of sugar over. This is another tradition that is foreign to us in the northwest. They put lots of sugar on EVERYTHING. You will be shocked to see how quickly kids will drink milk though when it is laden with sugar... I am not kidding. 5 seconds, a whole glass. Reminds me of beer guzzling days at the frat. Even Maggie Slammed her glass down, yelling "First". Not good.

Now it is 730pm. time to rondeavou I am feeling stupid and my kids are high on sugar. Let's go find mom!

Well we returned to the Spanish Carnival (think Tijuana) and the kids rode around a bit more and then we returned to the Gothic District for some more Tapas, at our favorite tapas bar. See the second video. I think this idea would be incredible in Seattle. It was small, packed and was doing an incredible dinner business. Very fun. The food is great as well.

We have a lovely Irish couple above us (who have lived here for 5 years, two restaurants that are American Cuisine of all things). They have a little dog named 'Christie'. They lived in NYC and San Francisco for 15 years.

Well tomorrow is our last day in Barcelona, sadly. We are off to Andalucia to a little town of Nerja on Tuesday Morning by plane. Barcelona is an incredibly town.

Eric and Amy